Suede vs Leather: Which Should You Buy for Bags & Wallets?

Is Suede Real Leather?

Yes — suede is leather, full stop. The confusion usually comes from how different it looks and feels next to a smooth leather bag or wallet.

Suede has a soft, fuzzy surface known as the "nap." Unlike full-grain leather, which keeps the tough outer skin of the hide, suede is made from the underside of the animal's skin. That inner layer is sanded and buffed to raise the fibres, which is what creates the warm, velvety texture suede is known for.

The name itself comes from old French: gants de Suède, or "gloves from Sweden." A style of soft Swedish glove became fashionable among Parisian buyers in the 19th century, and over time the name shifted from the gloves themselves to the material they were made from.

Where Suede Comes From: The Splitting Process

Raw hide is usually too thick to use as-is, so tanneries split it into layers before it becomes anything useful.

1. The split: the hide is sliced horizontally. The top layer — the grain — becomes full-grain leather. The bottom layer is the "split," and this is where suede comes from.
2. Sanding: the split layer is sanded with an abrasive surface, which lifts the collagen fibres and creates the nap.

What Suede Is Made Of

Suede is the same collagen-based protein structure as any other leather, finished with tanning agents that keep the split supple rather than letting it dry out and become brittle. The difference is entirely in the cut and the finish, not the underlying material.

The tanning method itself also affects the result. Chrome tanning (using chromium salts) is faster, gives a more uniform colour, and tends to be slightly more water-resistant — it's the more common method for everyday suede. Vegetable tanning, using tannins from bark and plant material, is slower and produces a softer hand and a more natural look, though it can be more sensitive to moisture. Neither is "better" outright — it's the same trade-off you'll see in full-grain leather, just expressed differently once the surface is napped rather than smooth.

Suede by Animal

Cowhide is the most common source, but suede can be made from almost any animal skin, and the source has a big effect on how it feels:

• Sheepskin (lambskin): the softest and finest suede, often considered the gold standard for high-end garments.
• Calfskin: a good balance of softness and durability — common in suede shoes.
• Pigskin suede: heavier and more durable, often used for casual shoes or workwear, and identifiable by its visible pores.
• Deerskin: rarer, prized for combining thickness with extreme softness.

Suede vs Nubuck

Suede and nubuck look similar but are made in opposite ways. Nubuck is created by sanding the outer grain of the hide, so it keeps the strength of the top layer underneath — a thicker, sturdier "velvet leather." Suede is created by sanding the inner split, which is why it's softer and more flexible — sometimes called "flannel leather."

Faux Suede (Microsuede)

Faux suede, or microsuede, is a synthetic fabric made from polyester fibres rather than animal hide. Premium versions are often treated to be water-resistant, and because it's synthetic rather than skin, it tends to trap heat more than genuine suede does.

What About Alcantara and Other Suede Alternatives?

If you've sat in a car with "suede-look" seats, there's a good chance it was Alcantara — a branded microsuede that's become the default synthetic alternative for car interiors and furniture, largely because it's more stain-resistant and easier to clean than genuine suede. Newer plant-based materials, made from things like mushroom mycelium or apple waste, are also starting to appear as suede-style alternatives, though they're still niche compared to genuine suede or synthetic microsuede. For clothing, footwear and accessories, genuine suede and full-grain leather remain the benchmark most people are actually comparing.

Comparison at a Glance

Advantages of Suede

• Aesthetics: suede's matte finish absorbs light rather than reflecting it, which makes colours look deeper and richer.
• Tactile feel: the softness is genuinely unmatched — a suede jacket feels almost like another layer of skin.
• Pliability: suede moves and drapes well, which suits slouchy silhouettes and more elaborate designs.

Disadvantages of Suede

• Permeability: suede is naturally porous, so it absorbs water and oil almost instantly.
• Durability: with the tough outer skin removed, suede is thinner and tears more easily than full-grain leather.

The Environmental Side of Suede

• By-product use: like most leather, suede is a by-product of the meat industry, which keeps hides out of landfill.
• Tanning chemicals: the tanning process uses chemicals, though reputable tanneries run proper water treatment systems.
• Longevity: a well-cared-for suede piece can last for years, which still beats the throwaway cycle of fast fashion.

Fashion & Footwear

From desert boots to loafers, suede has long been a favourite for casual footwear thanks to its soft texture and breathability — both of which make it comfortable for all-day wear. It's also a go-to material for gloves, prized for the grip and warmth the nap provides.

Home Decor & Upholstery

Suede fabric is widely used for curtains, cushions and sofas. It adds a warm, comfortable texture and a non-slip surface — the upside of suede furniture. The downside is that genuine suede is genuinely hard to keep clean, which is why most "suede" sofas on the market are actually faux suede for easier upkeep.

What Happens If Suede Gets Wet?

Water soaks straight into suede's porous fibres. As it dries out, it can carry away some of the leather's natural oils, leaving the suede stiffer than before — and the nap can flatten where it got wet, leaving shiny or dark patches. None of this is permanent if you act quickly and follow the steps below.

The Suede Cleaning Kit

To handle most suede maintenance at home, keep these on hand:

• A suede brush — brass bristles for tougher nap, nylon for delicate pieces.
• A suede eraser — a rubber block for lifting marks and dirt.
• White vinegar — for tougher stains.
• A protective spray — to make the surface water-repellent.

Step-by-Step Care

Step 1: Routine Maintenance

After wearing suede shoes or carrying a suede piece, give it a quick brush in one direction with a suede brush. This lifts surface dust before it has a chance to settle into the nap.

Step 2: Removing Water Stains

If you get caught in the rain:

1. Blot the area with a dry towel — don't rub.
2. Let it dry naturally, away from any direct heat.
3. Once dry, brush back and forth firmly to fluff the fibres back up.

Step 3: Removing Oil Stains

Oil is the one to watch:

1. Cover the spot with cornstarch as soon as you notice it.
2. Leave it overnight so the powder can draw the oil out.
3. Brush the powder away the next day, and repeat if needed.

Step 4: Can Suede Be Washed?

Technically yes, but it's risky. Never put suede in a washing machine — full water saturation breaks down the tanning agents and leaves the leather stiff and warped. For anything beyond a light clean, a professional suede cleaner is worth the cost. For care guidance across our full-grain leather range, see our leather care tips page.